Duckie

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EXCESS BAGGAGE

frustrated flâneur | shameless sybarite | art junkie | intrepid collector | pariah extraordinaire


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LV Men's Autumn/Winter 2009 Runway
the Mothership
deluxeduck





for this collection, LV Menswear director Paul Helbers has taken cues from the exuberant LV Women's S/S 2009 look of a 1940's
jeune fille Parisienne with an African twist. he describes the new collection as "the traveling wardrobe of an African king". Mr Helbers has a penchant for mixing disparate ideas: 50's Cocktail Party in the Moon or Hawaiian Victoriana for example, but not prone to literal interpretations. so instead of going for an outright ethnic look, he opted for a more paired back collection of wardrobe staples that amalgamated high tech and high luxe. a formula that seems to prove successful season after season. thus guaranteeing the Vuitton man wardrobe longevity.

but we all know that in a Louis Vuitton runway presentation, the clothes come secondary to the real stars of the show: the bags.

for Fall'09, we shall see a number of past collections revisited and reinterpreted. first up would be bags and luggages in the classic Monogram Canvas trimmed with black leather:

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this unquestionably masculine combination was first seen on the F/W 2004 runway:

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for F/W2009, they have also made a more special version in honeycomb
matelassé:

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which instantly reminds me of the "Rebonds" soccer balls they made back in 1999 in support of Unicef:





the hugely successful
Damier Graphite Collection from F/W2008 makes a second appearance in the form of large briefcase-like holdalls:

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which to me looks like a slight improvement of the
Jørn.


probably the priciest and most desirable of all the bags seen on this runway would be these Monogram embossed leather bags in sombre black:

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that Speedy - to me its a Speedy because the straps attaching the handles to the body do not go right around the bag like you see in a Keepall - looks set to be the runaway hit of the entire show. but this reversed (bumps instead of crevices) monogram effect first appeared in the women's Pre Fall 2007 Monogram Bronze Collection:

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i was a bit sad that they didn't expand this line since i really like this leather effect. but now im glad it has reincarnated in black for the boys.

they have also included a couple of newbies. one is a line of what seems to be plain black whipcord material (similar to the black fabric used in some
Taiga bags) with black matte calfskin trim:

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quite minimalist and understated, which reminds me of Prada's signature nylon bags or pre-logomania Tom Ford for Gucci.

but the bags that will definitely polarize LV fans would be these:

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looks like they're made from some microfibre material with leather trims. the blue and the burgundy are quite alright, but not too sure about the silver. i like the size, function and simplicity of the shape. im definitely intrigued.



and to finish it up, here are my top 3 personal picks:

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a Monogram Canvas bag with black leather trim has always been a dream of mine to have. i really think the sharp contrast  works for men especially. this computer bag seems just perfect for my current needs.


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similar to the Damier Graphite Tadao (Feature Bag #18), these look like great unstructured totes that seem relatively lightweight and fuss-free.


but the one bag that stood out among all of them to me is this:

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its the type of bag you either love or hate. but the feather print - which is quite unlike LV - really appeals to me. through the years i have included a few bags with atypically LV patterns such as the Ouvea (feature bag #3), Canwan (feature bag #19), toile chemise (feature bag #8), Vail Blanket (feature bag #6) and Monogramouflage (feature bag #15). these are the sort of items that do not make a comebck. a one-time only deal. which is what attracts me to the feathers as well. plus i love the surprise people get when they later realize the bag im carrying is a Vuitton.


Fall-Winter 2009 proves to be a VERY promising season. im genuinely excited. what's your pick?


images:
Louis Vuitton, men.style.com, always in style.

great picks! my top 3 is the same as yours, except i would swap first place with the embossed-speedy-not-a-cube-not-yet-a-keepall

loving the 2nd bag, very functional

and i would also pick the blue feathers fabric bag too. more discreet.

love your analysis!

the black embossed Speedy is prob my fourth pick as well. but im kinda sticking to smaller, compact

deluxeduck

2009-01-24 12:36 am (UTC)

the black embossed Speedy is prob my fourth pick as well. but im kinda sticking to smaller, compact bags for the mean time. since i already have a few large ones already.

Wow, you're one technically adept boy, dd. Your analysis and references are intelligent, and I adore your reasoning for the feather tote. Excellent top three.

Sana lang may makaya akong bilhin sa mga ito. Scarf lang happy na ako. LOL.

thanks Mark. im quite optimistic that some of these bags will be relatively easier on the pocket compared to S/S'09. prob the all black bags but those nylon totes especially. i also want one of those large scarves too.

I really hope that Tadao-looking bag in monogram with the black leather trim gets produced. I'm tipping that it'd be around the same price as the Damier Graphite? Those iridescent totes are possibly relatively cheaper, yes. I like either the red or the blue one.

I love the up coming collection. The first thing that came to my mind was is Vuitton tring to use up the left over materials from the past season?!? I might be wrong. But at the end I love these collections.

this collections continues my excitement from the neon Graffiti. i really look forward to these. "scrap" material have been used a couple of times in the past. think of the Julie Verhoeven's Fairytale patchwork bags and the love-it-or-hate-it Tribute bag for example. but for F/W'09 none of them are actual leftovers from previous collections i don't think.

this is the first stop i made when i couldn't get through to see the fashion show video. hehe. anyway, this is a promising collection and i am super hyped up seeing the monogram with the black leather combo. i don't know if you remember but i asked about this combo before for the backpack. anyway, i can't wait to get a piece of it. i am also loving the totes but not sure of monos. and i totally agree with you on the blue feather one. aaaaahhhhh!

the blue feather print tote is the one for me. i just hope they do make it.

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